local music scene > phonoma

While I lived in London, I worked at a bar in Soho, and a couple of my Irish work mates were in a band called Phonoma. It was always a competition to see who could get the night off first to go see them!

Joel and I went to see the band in full swing at Plan B in Brixton one evening and they were fantastic live. You could almost describe their sound as folk-electronic, with rock roots and melodic vocals. Another work mate, photographer Ivo Pauls always works hard to capture Phonoma in action and has made some fantastic videos (see below).

Some of the band members played a few weeks later at a Jam Session at the Hideaway. It was a classic BBQ afternoon in a London beer garden with a few guitars and good company, which turned into an electronic show downstairs later in the evening. Brilliant night!

Lazy Summer Jam Session by Chasing Thunder from Ivo Pauls on Vimeo.

soho date circuit

Soho is what I had always dreamt, and so much more. It's probably the most true to original London of all areas and it’s managed to keep its integrity despite the Oxford street madness around the corner. It's grungy, edgy and trendy all at the same time. A long established entertainment district famous for is sex-shops, film industry and night-life. You can get your hands on anything your heart desires whether it’s a world class cocktail in a secret lounge bar, delicious food from the newest upcoming place or a spot of class a’s in a dingy alley (although I wouldn't recommend it). 

The Soho Date Circuit (I stole the name off a friend who took me on his) is a list of my favourite Soho secrets that aren't so secret. It has been chopped and changed and added to and takes it form mostly because I worked around the corner. Soho was my backyard and I would spend hours wandering around during my breaks exploring what the streets had to offer.  A fine example of its quirkiness; I found an awesome little window in 'stripper alley' that served the best 2 pound tom yum soup. I went there at least 5 times, the guy recognised me as I walked to work and then, it suddenly disappeared. The streets are full of vintage shops, independent retailers, record stores, theatre and cinema, little cafes and daily markets that do fantastic lunch time street food. Plus is the gay centre of London, which isn't surprising considering the funky, hip vibe that Soho oozes with, that heteros surely couldn't pull off. 




During the night is when it morphs into different beast. Party goers frolic in funky underground bars and businessmen (and women) come out to play, in search a little something after work to take the edge off that will surely slow their productivity the next day. Soho is a place where you are guaranteed to have a good night, and you would be shunned upon if you didn't consider stopping off at the strippers on the way home. 

So take a date or take a mate. Just don't take your grandma, it is Soho after all.

The best area to wander is within an imaginary triangle between Oxford Street, Piccadilly Circus and Tottenham court tube stations. Try walking down Berwick Street as a starting point but also walk down Wardour Street, Dean Street, Poland Street, Kingley Street, Soho Square and Shaftsbury Avenue.

• Cafes - Flat white, Foxtrot and Ginger and Yumcha all along Berwick St
• Healthy organic bites - try Beatroot for fresh vegetarian and Vitao for an amazing vegan buffet style lunch
• Gourmet Burger Kitchen - you could almost find it in every london suburb, GBK is one of the only 'chain' restaurants I'd support coz its pure deliciousness. Its a little pricey but amazing and make sure you get a milkshake! Its made from real chocolate. Just don't admit it's a kiwi joint; do what we do best and claim its Australian
• Shopping – beyond retro and absolute vintage shops (for other shops read timeout article)
• Busaba - CALAMARI. Get it or get out! It's the f*cking bomb-digitty and everyone in London ould agree. Busaba is the type of place where you share a big table with a bunch of strangers but in no way can you hear their conversation. It's great to go with friends, especially when you're a bit boozed. Inexpensive meals that are well above average. Do it.
• Theatre and Cinema - soho is full of it
• Record shops – sister ray and bm soho
• Feel - a top London hairdresser in the heart of Soho. Seriously one of the best I've been to, ask for Stellios, he's the man!
• Soho House - apparently quite famous although I was naive at the time I went. This place isn't cheap though and it's kind of a private members' club
• Two bars right next to each other on Frith Street; Ceviche (a peruvian kitchen/pisco bar) and the Arts Theatre Club (a cozy underground bar that also does great cocktails)
• Experimental Cocktail Club – classic 'speakeasy' in the middle of china town, good luck finding it and go well dressed, with a ‘I’ve been here before’ attitude is all I can say
• The Toucan – near soho square, this place serves THE best Guinness in London without a doubt. Even the Irish think so!
• La Bodega Negra – think of a normal Mexican restaurant with a grungy underground version below it. Don’t go asking the main resuatnt where the entrance is either , they’ll pretend they don’t know what you’re talking about. Its around the corner from Singing in the Rain, through what seems like a peep show/sex shop. It's a way to keep to the geeks out I guess
• LAB bar – arguably the best cocktails in Soho (try the Solero cocktail) 
• for more bars read BarChick's article Soho Safari

do london like a local

The experience you have in London depends on how long you have there and what time of the year/week it is, but there truly is something for everyone. I always try to keep away from lists but sometimes they're just so damn good, you can't help but share. So here's how to do London like a local. Pick and choose, or do 'em all, you won't be disappointed! note: in no partiular order

Abbey Road – any Beatles fan would appreciate a good re-enactment and best of all, it’s free. Be careful of traffic though because it’s still an operating road. Mai and I took the different coloured suits and did a photo shoot. Pretty fun! Be sure to write on the wall at the Abbey Road Studio

Brick Lane - salivate over the infamous curries, banksie street art and the funky vintage stores, Brick Lane is a London must-see. check out the website, there's bound to be an event

The Borough Market (Fri/Sat) – one of the oldest food markets in London, it’s a foodies heaven. Visiting with n empty stomach is a must and do try the haloumi burgers and the salted beef rolls.

The Portebello Road Market (Fri) - full of little souvenirs and trinkets, Portebello Road is classic London.  

The Camden Stables Markets (daily but best on weekends) - a bit more eddy/hippy with great local handmade stuff. Camden is a great place to wander around and is famous for it's music. 

Camden Canal ride - I never go thte chance to do this but if the weather is good, apparently this is a really nice outing for under 10 quid!

Soho - this is seriously London at it's best! Vintage shops, cafes, records stores, funky desinger shops, street food, you name it. Just wander around during the day or bar hop at night. Read the Soho date circuit for more tips or check out Timeout's Soho Area Guide

Picnic in summer – I didn't get a chance to do it myself but told it is a must on a warm summers day! Hit Primrose Hill or Regents Park with a bunch of friends 

House party in winter - Space in London is pretty hard to come by, but house parties are a fantastic way to save money and stay out of the cold

Go to a Theatre show - look at last minute tickets online for the best deals, or you can just rock up and ask for the cheapest tickets

Oxford Street shopping – maybe more for the girls, Oxford Street is a shoppers heaven of high-street fashion but be warned; it’s always packed and as always, watch your bag.

Take a stroll down Carnaby Street – One of London's most iconic shopping streets full of independent boutiques, global fashion brands and restaurants. I’m told there’s a great burger place and coffee shop here too.

Museums – are free! ‘nuf said (Timeout article: Free Museums in London) 

Tate Modern - London art gallery housing the UK's collection of modern and contemporary art

Park it up - head to one of the many royal parks (try Richmond park or Hyde park),  go for a run, ride or a wander. These parks are huge! Also if you fancy spotting deer, check out Richmond park.

Piccadilly Circus-  it’s always packed but go by night, even if it’s just to take a photo of a red bus passing those beautiful buildings  

Monopoly Pub Crawl - a DIY pub crawl stopping off at every street on the monopoly board. You can find all the locations online

Ain't Nothin' But – an awesome little blues bar in Soho. Go any night of the week and they'll surely have some live music on. They also sell coopers pale ale stubbies…

Find a gig – London is full of music, there’s bound to be something on while our in town. Check out Songkick and also my other article, london live

Southbank – stroll along Southbank either by day or night, most of London's icons are here (St. Pauls, Big Ben, London Bridge, the London Eye etc). Be sure to stop at the Founders Arms for a pint looking across the Thames at St Pauls.

Fulham and Chelsea – get on the tube to Fulham Broadway, it’s a great neighbourhood (it's where I lived). Check out Manuka Kitchen (an excellent little cafe specialising in brunch) and all the charity shops along Fulham Road, where the rich people donate hardly worn designer clothes.

The Cafe scene - London's cafe scene is definitely up-and-coming (thanks to good ol' Aussies and Kiwis bring over the culture). A few years ago you had to settle for Starbucks and Costa Coffee, but now the independent 'third wave' coffee culture has exploded. You can read about my fvourite cafes here

Sunset chasing - one of my favourite things to do, anywhere, any time (when the sun goes down). Head to one of London's many rooftop bars (weather permitting obviously) and watch the sunset over the city

West End Lane in west hampstead – the upper part of west end lane is great fr charity shops and little bars/cafes

Notting Hill - where the famous Notting Hill Carnival is held, there are lots of funky places for a good night out, just walk around. Oh, and I guess if you're a Hugh Grant fan you could go to the blue door featured in the film

Special occasion dinner (for the 'flashpacker') – try one of the Michelin Star restaurants. I’ve been recommended the Ledbury, but book way in advance

Breweries - Like beer? Believe it or not, London has some great local boutique brews (list of breweries). But do try Brewdog Brewery (one near Shorditch and Camden), which isn't on the list....and I think its Scottish but myeh, it's good!

Electric cinema – Australia’s version Gold Class but ‘em, a little classier. I’d suggest going a little earlier and dining at the Electric  Diner. Try the Scottish Stout is on par with Guinness and has a lovely choclately flavour 

Plastic People -   If you'd prefer small independent clubs over the super clubs sprawling with drunk teenagers, this is right up your alley. PP is is a tiny basement club in the heart of east London's Shoreditch. With world famous sound system (all the walls are made up of giant speakers) and dim lighting, you'll surely have a great night with heavy bass oriented tunes pumping through your body. 

Bars and nightlife - There are SOOOO many good places in London, and it really does depend on the area. I wouldn't do it justice trying to list them. Good job someone else has done all the hard work....If you have an apple device, download the BarChick app. London is the most extensively covered city on this app, so do what I did and work your way through the list. Flick to the map page and see what’s near you, in most cases there’ll be something around the corner! You can also read about my favourites in soho or for live music

local music scene > ryan adams

No, it's not Bryan Adams for the fiftieth time. I actually didn’t know who RYAN Adams was until late 2011, which is almost a crime in itself! He is an American musician, well-respected and most well-known by the singer-songwriter community. Ryan Adams’ cover of Wonderwall is better than the original, his Heartbreaker and Gold albums are excellent for road trips and he is a solid live performer. 

When I read that Adams would be playing at the Royal Albert Hall in London, I just had to go; knocking of two must-do items on my bucket list in one night! In no way did he disappoint; he was on the ball the whole night, he entertainingly engaged with the audience and had a great sense of humour. Ryan Adams is one muso you definitely have to listen to and don’t pass up an opportunity to see him live!

ireland in a nutshell

  










Ireland is like a little getaway from London where people are, as I remember at home; friendly, carefree and relaxed. Most are in holiday mode, like you've entered a sleepy little town that brings out the honesty you miss and crave when living in a big city. The rough itinerary was a mini roadtrip loop over a long weekend; Cork, The Ring Of Kerry, Galway for St Paddys Day, and The Cliffs of Moher.

Driving around the south-west corner is an excellent way to see the countryside at its best. After leaving Cork, it was already Guinness o’clock so we stopped over in Kilarny for a pint of the good stuff. Throughout the day we stumbled across picturesque ruins of old castles and houses and made a stop-over at the famous Ross Castle. I was astounded with how quickly the scenery changed from rolling green hills to what seemed like volcanic terrain, to steep dramatic mountains.  We stopped at Ladies View Lookout for an Irish coffee, with (you guessed it) an amazing view. A young guy at the cafe recommended driving a loop through the Black Valley - sounded edgy. After following his instructions we drove along the narrow winding roads Ireland is famous for. With only enough room for one car, it's a team effort getting two past which significantly increases your driving time. The highlight of the day was passing through the Devils Punch Bowl, a little body of water between two peaks with another breathtaking view. 


That night in Cork, we went out to see some live music; a London based beatbox/blues duo, Heymoonshaker. You can read more about it here, but in summary we ended up being ‘groupies’ and bar hopped around with the band and their Swedish manager after the gig!

After 2 hours in the car the next morning, I experienced the after effects of Guinness first hand and spent a good while in stitches in a roadhouse bathroom. The next destination was Galway for Paddys day with Darren, another ‘whale friend’ (I am now going to use this term to describe friends I met while doing the project in Noosa). We arrived just before the Paddys day parade and stopped for a few more Guinness before checking in (clearly hadn’t learnt my lesson yet). Low and behold, we’d booked the conveniently located hotel on the wrong date. Great! We were in the heart of town on the busiest day in Ireland with nowhere to stay. The receptionist made a few calls and found a room for us at a decent price, which made me think that this trip was a bit more ‘flash packing’ than usual but we didn't have much if a choice. It ended up being the best mistake, ever. The Radisson Blu had an outdoor hottub, sauna, steam room, gym, an amazing buffet breakfast and a big arse room. We didn't have to meet Darren til later so we decided to hot tub it up and take in the amazing view.

Being in Ireland for Paddys day was a great experience. We spent the evening with Darren and his student crew in a little local pub, where the only bar tender managed to serve everyone at the bar at the same time. I swear he was pouring pints with his eyes closed. We ended up in a secret underground bar with a cranking folk rock band. 


The next day we drove south along another suggested coastal route through Ballyvaughan all the way to the Cliffs of Moher. We stopped at Monks seafood restaurant for their world famous chowder. It was THE best chowder I’ve had. I’d highly recommend it. We arrived at the Cliffs of Moher at the perfect time, catching a glimpse of an amazing sunset before accelerating our way to Shannon airport. 

Ireland in a nutshell is my favourite long weekend so far. But there's one thing I learnt. 
Guinness changes you, on the inside.

local music scene > heymoonshaker groupies

As soon as we decided to head to Ireland for St Paddy’s day I was on the internet to find a local gig to go to. I’d just been watching clips on youtube and came across a London based blues-beat-box duo called Heymoonshaker, who were playing in Cork on Saturday night. Perfect.

We walked through the quaint little streets in town and found the tiny bar we were looking for, and were greeted by a bouncer at the front door.  The funniest thing was that when we asked who was playing, he responded with “Ah I don’t some shit DJ or something”.  That shit DJ was actually two guys, one guitarist with a howling, gritty voice and the other just had a microphone, making beats of sound effects with his mouth. We settled in a booth with a Guinness right in front of them, and they were pretty amazing to watch up close. From a distance you really couldn’t tell whether it was a machine making the sounds or a man, hence the uneducated guess from the bouncer.

After the gig I went up to the guitarist and had a chat with him.  Long story short, we ended up spending the rest of the night with the group; the two musicians (Andy Balcon and Dave Crowe), their Swedish manager and another couple. We all headed to an awesome little bar I couldn’t remember the name of, that basically consisted of a small inside area and a well-lit alley way. We chatted about a lot of shit; the music industry mostly and how hard it is to make it in London. I gave them a few Australian artists to look up, like Tijuana Cartel and after drinking Guinness all night and having a few tokes; we were all of a sudden pretty wasted. It was time for these groupies to head home!

how to drink guinness like an irishman

After finishing my shift at  the bar I had a few hours to kill before transiting to the airport to fly to Cork for the St. Paddy’s Day weekend. Yeu! The guys from the bar (mostly Irish) were on their break so I went with them to The Toucan, undoubtedly serving the best Guinness in London.

I was a little concerned about starting the Guinness glory early but all concerns were replaced with the smooth creamy taste of a meal in a pint. Guinness is rich in iron so you can argue that its good for you, the Irish certainly do!

Denver (one Irish guy who gave me all the tips of where to go over the weekend) explained how to drink it properly. It's like Guinness etiquette. Do not sip Guinness, you will be frowned upon. Instead, (if you want to do it properly) take a firm grip, stand tall and proud, inspect the pint in all its glory and then take a long gulp. As you would count the rings of a tree, your pint should have five rings around it reflecting the five gulps you take to finish it. No more or no less. That's the way it's done.

Well, after practising I realised that we had downed 4 pints in an hour and it was time to head to the airport....crap. I felt quite happy leaving the bar and I wore the Guinness grin on the tube. I swear, Guinness is like a drug… you don’t feel drunk, just happily satisfied and relaxed.

At this stage  though, I was still concerned about how it would exit ….